The term vintage stands for fine, exceptional objects with a history. Vintage pieces are coveted because they exist in limited numbers and date from a particular era. Put another way: whatever is rare is perceived as luxury. Alongside furniture, clothes, jewellery, photographs, cars and decorative objects, watches belong to this category too. Anyone who loves the exceptional and has style cannot pass vintage by. For whoever treats themselves to a vintage piece owns something unique and authentic — and that comes at a price. But is the coveted piece actually genuine? This is where the specialists come in. Thanks to years of experience in the métier, they can recognise and guarantee the authenticity of the original.
Coveted rare pieces
The same applies to vintage watches, which as a rule are models from the luxury brands Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breitling, Longines, Cartier or Audemars Piguet. These precious pieces can be acquired at auction houses or from specialist dealers such as Beyer Chronometrie on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. As a general rule: the more exclusive the brand and the more special the movement, the more expensive the watch. And supply, of course, determines demand. Just as with other vintage objects, the smaller the production run, the more sought-after the model. The most expensive wristwatch ever auctioned is a Rolex Daytona that belonged to Paul Newman. In 2017, it was worth almost 18 million francs to one buyer.
Fortunately, there are plenty of vintage models that are not quite so expensive. “These individual pieces have proved that they are far more than a passing fad. They have outlasted their era and speak a language that will still be understood tomorrow,” says Dörte Herold, specialist for vintage watches at Beyer, getting to the heart of it. Many men have an intimate bond with their watch. Some own an heirloom; others, in buying a vintage watch, find a fine replacement for one. Yet vintage watches have not only emotional but also material value — and it rises with the years. We present three beautiful examples from the Pre-Loved collection.
What to look for when buying a vintage watch
1. Buy only from a trustworthy dealer. On the internet in particular, a watch purchase can easily turn into a flop.
2. Before purchase, the antique or vintage watch should have been comprehensively serviced by a qualified watchmaker.
3. A valuable antique watch comes with an extract from the makers’ archives, a certificate and a guarantee — and, ideally, the original box.
4. Pay attention to the condition of the watch as well. Does the case show dents? Are there scratches on the polished movement bridges or on the screw heads that diminish its value?
5. The more exclusive, the more valuable: especially sought-after are mechanical watches with an in-house manufacture movement, watches with complications — additional functions such as a chronograph, moon phase, second time zone or perpetual calendar — and watches with details such as an enamel dial or diamonds.
This article appeared in MEN issue 1/21 (November 2021).
